Monday the 5th Nov. My husband’s 65th Birthday. There was a haar/ a fret/ a sea-mist over the city. That is to be expected and very familiar if you live in Northumberland near the coast. We were headed for the Danish Pipe Shop and decided, because our phones didn’t work, to get directions from Tourist Info on Vesterbrogade, just round the corner from our hotel. Noel had the post code and showed it to the young man at the desk who very unhelpfully sent us on a hour long wild goose chase in exactly the opposite direction! Now that should NOT HAPPEN! It made me very angry that someone getting paid to be the official face of Copenhagen should be so careless and off hand with visitors. We walked and walked until it became obvious we were in the wrong area. A very helpful young man (who was in fact doing his job delivering stuff) Kindly looked up the Pipe Shop on his phone and told us a bus to get back. We chatted to a man on the bus about Brexit etc… Now in the right location, The Pipe shop continued to prove very illusive until, several people later, we decided to have lunch before going on. The man in the cafe was most helpful. We were just round the corner really but by now we were damp and tired and a bit dispirited. Copenhagen is a wee bit confusing — or are we just getting too old for this? It’s maybe better if you are young, can hop on and off bikes and are technologically savvy.

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In the Pipe Shop: Choices, choices — so many pipes — so much baccy. The decline of pipe shops in the UK has been startling over the past decade — they are few and far flung now. In Denmark you can still buy tobaccos that are no longer available here in the UK, even if you can get to a pipe shop and buying online from abroad, you risk confiscation. I am not defending smoking as such but pipes are different. A pipe isn’t a smoke so much as a hobby. They take cleaning, reeving, packing, lighting, smoking-in. They take care and a bit of patience. I love them purely as objects as a well turned pipe is a thing of beauty, a work of art, and they have character, but a dedicated smoking space is a good thing too because even though you don’t inhale pipe smoke, it produces lots of secondary smoke. Anyway, I love the fact that my husband smokes a pipe. My grandfather used to smoke a pipe too, (a Peterson). I love the scent of good baccy, the room-note, and they are beautiful objects — this addition to the collection is very nice too. We were thinking of our friend James who would love this shop.

The afternoon was spent sitting down — on a sight-seeing bus. We had a 48 hour tour pass. We saw the harbours, opera house, palaces (not very impressive on the outside…) Churchill Park in spectacular autumn foliage, churches, the old stock exchange/market building. The history was good. For my money though, Dublin, Amsterdam and Baltimore (Maryland) far more beautiful as sea cities go. We didn’t get out to see The Little Mermaid because we were knackered and a bit slow and we’d have had to wait half an hour for the final tour bus to come through. I’ve been told it is unimpressive anyway. The tour bus was worthwhile in that it allowed us to see the whole city and we chose a place to go back and explore the following day.

In the evening we’d chosen to have an Indian meal at The Guru. Now I have to say the food was good but not any better than in our local restaurant and at about three times the price, not great value. The music was of that intrusive bump-bump type not really conducive to my digestion. The seating is quite close together — this may be a British complaint but our fellow diners unfortunately included two men who were being over-familiar with the waitress, hogging her time, generally loud and by turns contemptuous and apologetic (calling her over just to apologise for offending her) so that they got away with behaviour which, in our opinion, was well out of line and maybe the management (I believe she did complain to one of her male colleagues) shouldn’t have allowed. They were however spending, by the look of what they had, a huge sum of money. It rather spoiled what might have been a quiet evening. I wouldn’t really go back. I think in general, though we did it for convenience, I would try to find more secluded restaurants off the tourist trail. It’s hard to know when you’re searching, what you will get.

And so ended a rather tiring but ultimately successful, 65th Birthday bash.